Tuesday, 19 July 2016

How to grow Thicker Hair

Let’s face it the majority of us want thicker hair. This is because thicker hair can usually hold a style better and really looks beautiful in all its voluminous, radiant glory. Most hairstyles look better when your hair is thicker and with thicker hair you can get away with styling your hair without the use of any hair extensions.



Although your genes play a factor in the thickness of your hair, there are other factors that might affect your hair’s thickness or cause thinning hair such as stress, poor nutrition, hormonal imbalance, improper hair care practices, illness, and so on. There have been periods where my hair has not been as thick but the thickness has come over time and I will be sharing with you all the necessary tips and tricks to help you grow thicker hair.

Deep Condition Regularly/Use a protein deep conditioner: It is important to deep condition your hair regularly to ensure that your hair is adequately nourished which will in turn lead to thicker hair. It is also important that you deep condition with protein deep conditioners as often as your hair will allow. This is because the protein in the deep conditioner will fortify and rebuild the hair shaft which will in turn lead to thicker, hair.

Hot Oil Treatments/Pre shampoo Treatments: It is necessary to do hot oil treatments/pre shampoo treatment with beneficial natural oils which are proven to actually work to stimulate hair growth and improve its thickness over time such as Wura’s Secret Hair Growth Oil, Olive Oil, Avocado Oil which help to improve the overall condition of your hair thus giving thicker hair

Scalp massages with natural oils: It is important for people who want to have thicker hair to massage oils into their scalp which provide the hair with benefits which will include thicker hair. There are many natural oils that can be applied to the scalp which would cause the hair to be thicker over time such as Wura’s Secret Hair Growth Oil, castor oil, amla oil, mustard oil.

Minimise the amount of heat you use on your hair: If you truly want thicker hair then it is important that you limit the amount of direct heat you use on your hair. If you are constantly blow drying your hair, flat ironing it or using other heat styling tools, your hair will become dry and brittle over time which will eventually lead to breakage which would cause thinner hair. Instead of blow drying, try air drying or a roller setting your hair. Rather than use curling irons/ tongs try bantu knot outs, twist outs, flexi rods sets (where the curls are set on damp hair and allowed to air dry) here is an example of the flexi rod curls I achieved without the use of any form of heat.

Detangle gently: If anytime you want to detangle your hair, you do so roughly without taking extra care; your hair would lose volume over time and break off. For thicker hair however it is important that you are careful when you are detangling your hair to keep as many strands as possible on your head. It is important to find the particular method/s that works for you in detangling your hair which would cause minimal breakage; this could be finger detangling, detangling with a conditioner in your hair, detangling in sections with a wide tooth comb. Experiment with various methods until you find what works for you.

Protective styling: Protective styles are styles where the ends of your hair are protected. These styles are crucial to maintaining/improving the health of your hair and aids in our quest for thicker hair. This is because when the hair is kept in a protective style it is less prone to external elements which may cause breakage and damage over time, thereby resulting in thicker, healthier hair. With protective styles you should avoid tight hairstyles that will pull at the hair and cause breakage or hair loss otherwise known as traction alopecia. Also in styling your hair do not use anything that can cause your hair to snag such as poorly made hair pins and other hair accessories, hair bands with the metal part, etc. It is important to always sleep with a satin/silk scarf/bonnet or on a satin/silk pillow case.

Take care of your ends: It is important that you take care of your ends in your quest for thicker hair. If your ends keep breaking off or they look straggly or thin they will not help the overall appearance of your hair and your hair may seem limp and unhealthy. So when you are deep conditioning focus the deep conditioner to all parts of your hair including the ends, the same applies for when you are moisturising and sealing it is crucial that we pay particular attention to the ends of our hair which will in turn translate to thicker hair.

Moisturise and seal your hair: A reason why our hair may not be as thick is due to breakage which may be caused by dry hair which is not properly moisturised and sealed. It is necessary to moisturise and seal regularly with products that work best for our hair. This can be done daily, twice daily, every other day, twice or once a week, it is all about finding out what works best for your hair. The moisturiser should contain water as its first ingredient and should not contain ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil and other substances that can clog the hair shaft. Effective moisturising and sealing methods will result in hair that is more supple, healthy, longer and thicker.

Do not abuse chemical treatments: Some people might opt to use chemical processes on their hair such as relaxers, texturisers, hair dye and so on. This in itself is not a bad thing, what is bad however is when the chemical treatments are done incorrectly and not according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For example for anyone who get’s their hair relaxed there are several important precautions to follow when getting your relaxer done please read this post here for more details. However to sum it up it is important when getting your hair relaxed to protect the previously relaxed hair and relax only the new growth, it is also beneficial to the hair if it is not relaxed bone straight and it is also important to use a neutralizing shampoo to wash your hair thoroughly with about 3 to 4 or more washes to ensure that all the relaxer is out of your hair. Also after shampooing use a protein reconstructor/protein deep conditioner on your hair to help rebuild the hair shaft that has been compromised by the chemicals in the relaxer. It is possible to use chemical treatments and still have thick hair; I am an example, it is just important to make sure that you use these treatments properly so that the health, length and thickness of your hair is not hampered.

If you are relaxed, try texlaxing & stretching your relaxers: I explain all about how to texlax in a previous post here. Texlaxing is when you intentionally under process the hair when getting your hair relaxed. There are several methods to doing this which I have explained in my previously linked texlaxing post. The act of under processing the hair allows the hair to appear thicker because the hair is not relaxed bone straight and the amount of texture left in the hair gives it a thicker appearance.

Also try stretching the amount of time you have in between relaxers. For example if you get your hair relaxed every 8 weeks you can stretch to about 10 weeks. When you are stretching embrace your new growth do hairstyles that will look nice with your new growth this is not the time to start brushing your hair into submission trying to make it look as flat as possible as this could lead to breakage and loss of thickness over time. Styles such as the faux bob, voluminous bun, actually look nicer with new growth so embrace these styles the further you go into your stretch. You can also make the stretch easier by getting braids, weave/weave-on and so on just make sure you care for your hair properly whilst in these styles.

Maintain a Healthy Diet/Be Healthy: It is important to eat a good diet with all the food groups especially with foods that contain protein, Vitamin B, omega 3 fatty acids, biotin as these food groups aid healthy hair. Also do drink as much water as you can and exercise regularly.


I thank you my lovelies for reading this post of mine, if you found it helpful please share. I would also appreciate your comments, if you have any questions relating to this topic or any others please share them in the comment section below and I will be sure to answer them. If you have any other methods that have given you thicker hair please share as well so that we can all benefit.

TONKABELLE, xoxo



"I will love the light for it shows me the way, yet I will endure the darkness for it shows me the stars" - Og Mandino

Friday, 15 July 2016

Easy Retro Pin up Scarf Hairstyle on Relaxed/Texlaxed Hair – No Hair Extensions Required

Hello everyone, hope you are all doing well I just wanted to share the details of how to achieve this Retro Pin up Scarf Hairstyle. This hairstyle is suitable for all hair types.  Like I have mentioned in previous posts, I love buns but I have found that they can get quite monotonous after a while as I hardly ever wear hair extensions, braids and things like that, so I was getting quite fed up with wearing my simple bun every day. So I came up with the voluminous faux bob which is a variation of the voluminous bun hairstyle.

I have been wearing the voluminous bob hairstyle for some time now and I was also getting a bit bored with it. So this morning since it was a Friday I decided to use one of my hair scarves to give a different spin to the voluminous bob look. For some inspiration I watched this youtube video by Pinup Doll Ashley Marie.

Now Ashley Marie has different hair from me and she was doing a lot of backcombing, although backcombing adds a lot of volume to the hair it can also be quite damaging so I decided to skip that step, particularly as we have different hair types with African hair being more fragile. My variation on back combing is the fluffing/opening out hair step which I describe in a previous post linked below. Also because I was in a rush to get out of the house in the morning I did not have enough time to fluff the hair to give it a lot of volume but I did try.


I must say that the retro pin up scarf hairstyle was a huge success; I got loads of compliments wearing it. Who knew that a simple accessory a hair scarf in this case could make a world of difference? I would like to encourage everyone to do things with their own hair, experiment and you will be amazed at what you can accomplish styling your own hair. If you would like to find out how I achieved this Retro Pin up Scarf hairstyle please keep reading for the instructions:

  • Moisturise and seal your hair but be sure that when you are doing this you do not apply a lot of product as your hair must not be weighed down. If it is you would not be able to achieve a very voluminous look.
  • Next section the front part of your hair in a sort of u shape, this shape gives the best sort of pinned up curl (pin it out of the way as we will work with it later)
  • We will work with the back section first. Take your hair and fluff/open it up, for details on how to fluff/open up your hair please read this post.
  • After the hair at the back has been fluffed out and you have gained the required amount of volume fold the ends of your hair inwards and pin.
  • Next take your scarf and tie it around the perimeter of your head covering your ears slightly (you would stop just under the section that has been pinned out of the way). When you are tying your scarf round your head make sure that it is wide enough so that it looks like a scarf and not a head band.
  • Then take the front section of your hair (and backcomb it the tiniest bit) and curl it as if you were about to put that section of your hair in a big roller then pin it in place.


Voila! Your Retro Pin up Scarf Hairstyle is done. Hope you enjoyed this hairstyle tutorial and you were able to understand the instructions. If there is any hairstyle tutorial you would like me to feature please share and I will be sure to do a post on it. You can also share some of your favourite hairstyles in the comment section below so we can draw some inspiration from everyone. I wish you all a fabulous weekend!

TONAKABELLE, xoxo



"Now, God be praised, that to believing souls gives light in darkness, comfort in despair." - William Shakespeare

Thursday, 7 July 2016

Wash Day Post – A Traditional Wedding Guest Outfit + Hairstyle

Hello my loves, I just wanted to do a quick wash day post for you all. Well I must say that I am absolutely delighted that we have a long public holiday in Nigeria. I attended a traditional wedding yesterday and I could not resist sharing photos of myself in a traditional outfit as well as details of how I washed my hair on the day.

I started off this wash day with my usual prepoo using the V05 Silky Experiences Shea Cashmere Conditioner and sealed it in with Wura’s Secret Hair Growth Oil. This was at about 7pm after I just got back from work exhausted and I left it in till 9:00pm which was about 2 hours. I covered my hair with a plastic/nylon bag and a shower cap. In applying the pre poo treatment I divided my hair into about 8 sections applied the conditioner and I hurriedly detangled using my fingers alone. I noticed that whilst finger detangling my hair was not really tangled which was something that I was happy about given that my hair is currently 9 weeks post relaxer. I feel like this stretch is going quite well at least in the fact that my hair is not tangling as much as it used to it in the past. I think a reason for this is because I have reduced the amount of protein I use.

I then washed my hair with the ORS Aloe Shampoo because I felt like my hair had been quite dry and needed a clarifying wash. It turns out after doing the hair porosity test that I have low porosity hair. I guess that is why my hair likes shampoos and I never do any co-washes as it just causes product build up for me. If you want to find out more about hair porosity I would encourage you to read my post on “Hair Porosity and How to Determine your Hair Porosity” here is the link. Anyway I was in a hurry to wash my hair because I was so tired.

At about 9:30pm I was applying deep conditioner to my hair, I felt like I did this hurriedly. I deep conditioned my hair overnight with (with my nylon/plastic bag and shower cap plus a head wrap). Before I went to bed however I went under my curl formers blow dryer attachment (I cannot stop saying how awesome that product is do check out my review here) for 50 minutes. I actually fell asleep while I was drying my hair thank God for hubby who woke me up in time. Note to self never wash your hair when you are tired. I used a deep conditioner mix of Wura’s Secret Deep Conditioner, Elasta QP conditioner, Wura’s Secret Hair Growth Oil, and Olive Oil, I then sealed in the conditioner with Coconut Oil as my oil rinsing step.

In the morning I was in a rush to go to the market so I hurriedly took off the nylon bag and plastic cap and I detangled my hair with the conditioner still in it using my wide tooth comb. I then rinsed out the deep conditioner mix with cold water.

I towel dried my hair thoroughly, oiled my scalp with Wura’s Secret Hair Growth Oil and applied my leave-ins, Cantu Shea Butter, Shea Moisture Curl & Style Milk and then I sealed everything in with Wura’s Secret Hair Growth Oil. I am beginning to think about changing some of these leave-ins to something that does not contain any protein or at least substituting one of them as my hair felt dry for some reason. Maybe it is because I was in a rush that I did not take my time like I do usually. I put my hair in a bun and that was how I air dried it. I went out for about 4 or 5 hours and you would not believe that my hair was still slightly damp especially around the bun part when I wanted to style it for the traditional wedding later in the day. This again is another characteristic of low porosity hair which is that it takes a long time to air dry.

I decided to wear my hair in my go –to hairstyle to the traditional wedding which is the voluminous faux bob with a side fringe. I also wore one of my favourite outfits which is a kaftan I got in Dubai. I love it because it so sparkly, easy to wear and gives you glamour in an instant. I share a few photos of the kaftan I wore and my hairstyle. I love how full my hair looks these days, I never really need to do much to achieve this style I simple fluff it and pin. Please enjoy the photos! They were taken at night after the wedding.






Please share how your own wash day went, your favourite products and especially if you have recommendations for a good, readily available moisturising leave-in treatment and hair moisturiser without any protein. Hope you all enjoyed my mini hairstyle look book in this traditional wedding outfit and thank you very much for reading my post.

TONKABELLE, xoxo



"The weak can never forgive. Forgiveness is the attribute of the strong." - Mahatma Gandhi, All Men are Brothers: Autobiographical Reflections



Monday, 4 July 2016

Hair Porosity and How to Determine the Porosity of your Hair

In our quest for healthy hair it is very important to know the porosity of our hair this will help us in taking better care of our hair and knowing what our hair wants. It will also help us determine the right products and treatments for our hair. Hair Porosity can be defined as the hair’s ability to absorb and keep moisture. Porosity can also be defined as how fast or slow your hair absorbs chemical treatments. The porosity of our hair is determined by the cuticle layer of the hair which is outermost layer of the hair shaft and it controls how much water enters and leaves the hair.

Low porosity hair has a very tightly bound cuticle layer, there is therefore a lack of effective penetration and release of moisture, chemicals, hair products, etc into the hair shaft. High porosity hair has various gaps and holes on the cuticle layer of the hair shaft and therefore allows for fast penetration and release of moisture and chemical products. Medium porosity is the healthiest porosity type and requires the least amount of maintenance. Low porosity is also fairly healthy as it is the next best thing.

My low porosity hair



The porosity of our hair is usually predetermined by genetics, however other factors can come into play which may change the porosity of our hair such as relaxers, hair dyes and so on. I always thought I had high porosity hair because I had done a test a long time ago and that was the result I got. However on further research I have found that I have low porosity hair (you will see my test results below) which explains why my hair never takes to relaxers, is coarse and always dry. This will also explain why my hair does not really benefit from co-washing as it just seems to cause product build up for me. I will be doing more detailed posts on low porosity and high porosity hair in subsequent posts. But first we need to determine how we can find out about the porosity of our hair.

How to Determine the Porosity of your Hair

There are several methods that you can use to determine the porosity of your hair and I will be sharing them below:

The Float Test: The float test is very simple to do. To do the float test you will need room temperature water in a clear cup/jar. You would also need a strand/or a few strands of your already shed hair and a device to tell the time. Note that it is important that you use strands of hair that are clean without any product on them otherwise the results would be flawed. It is also recommended that you try out this test just after you have washed your hair.

To do the float test take the hair strand/ hair strands and place gently in the cup/jar. Observe the hair as you wait and use your timing device, observe for about 2-4 minutes. If the hair floats for 4 minutes and longer you have low porosity hair. If your hair sinks immediately you have high porosity hair. If your hair however floats takes a while before it sinks or you find it somewhere in the middle of the cup/jar you may have normal porosity hair.

I show the results of my test below. My hair continued to float 4 minutes after I put a few strands in the jar. I even left the hair strands in for over 24 hours and my hair was still floating which confirms the fact that I have low porosity hair.



The Strand Test: Take a shed strand of hair and slide your fingers gently through it. Where you feel some bumps and ridges along the hair shaft and the strand feels rough or dry that means you have high porosity hair. If your fingers glide through easily and the hair strand feels dense and hard then you have low porosity hair. If your fingers slip through smoothly then you have normal porosity hair.

The Water Test: Take a small section of your hair and take a spray bottle and lightly mist the section of hair with water. Watch how fast or slow it takes your hair to absorb the water. If the water merely sits on your hair and your hair takes a while to get wet you have low porosity hair. If your hair absorbs the water very quickly then you have high porosity hair. If the water sits on your hair for some time and then it absorbs in your hair you have normal porosity hair.

Other points to note in determining the porosity of your hair is how long it takes for your hair to air dry. If your hair air dries very fast you have high porosity hair and if it air dries really slowly and takes a very long while to air dry then you have low porosity hair. Another indication of high porosity hair is that it over processes easily when the hair is being chemically processed like when the hair is getting relaxed or colour treated. However low porosity hair is resistant to chemical processes such as relaxers and colour dyes.

Please do one or all of the tests and share your results in the comment section below let us learn about the porosity of everyone’s hair. Also please do let us know if you agree with your results based on the description of the various porosity types.


My posts on the various porosity types will be sure to follow, please watch this space.

TONKABELLE, xoxo



"Faithless is he that says farewell when the road darkens" - J.R.R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the Ring